I mean, right? I get why they want an alternate way to get in touch, but a cellphone plus multiple email addresses should be enough, IMO.

On the other hand, I may be able to figure out how to use DUO for this because I already have it for work.

My experience with cars has been:

Subaru GL - Mixed, lots of valve problems, but it was Subaru's first overhead cam engine and they hadn't gotten it quite right yet. CV boots seemed to tear a lot which was annoying.

Honda Civic - Had two that were pretty old when I got them and they did fine. We have one now and aside from bluetooth issues (fixed under warranty) it has been trouble free, but it's only a year old.

Saturn SL - Pretty solid car. Had it for 120,000 miles.

Ford Escort - Inherited one that was in bad shape already and we didn't keep long. Had a 95 Station Wagon that was great while I had it, but got totaled pretty quickly by a Mustang that ran a red light.

Ford Tempo - Bought this for super cheap and with a lot of miles, but it held up okay.

Chevy S10 - Inherited this old rusty truck with existing problems and didn't keep it real long. Not fair to evaluate S10s from it.

Mercury Villager - Pretty good vehicle that held up well and we got for an amazingly low price since the dealer mis-priced it. (Didn't get the price it was marked at, but still got it for much less than it was worth). Same thing as a Nissan Quest.

Ford Taurus - Did not hold up especially well. Not terrible, but not great.

Ford Windstar - Those damn anti-lock brakes. Aside from the anti-lock brakes it was fine. Never had to pay much to get them fixed though since we bought it with an extended warranty. Getting a used Windstar with extended warranty cost much less than getting a used Toyota or Honda minivan though.

Nissan Sentra - Hasn't held up great.

Ford Focus - It's been a rock. Got it with 95,000 miles, now has 212,000 miles and has never broken down. Had to fix the climate control, but otherwise it's just been replacing wear items. It's a 2007 though and the current ones are a completely different car.

Well, my power steering pump is starting to get noisy so I'll have to replace it when I get a chance. It's probably the original, so I can't complain too much.

I have an Impreza, and it has been my favorite car ever. It handles like a champ in bad weather, and I've had no issues with it.

My 2 cents: Buy a Toyota or a Honda. The 3 times I haven't, I've regretted it (Hyundai Veracruz, Mazda 626, Isuzu Rodeo).

My 2 cents: Buy a Toyota or a Honda.

There's a reason I'm on my third Toyota in 22 years. (Well, we still own Toyota #2, which is a 2000 and has 160,000 miles on it.) They have never done me wrong.

Glam's 2 cents are also mine.

I had my 2000 Acura Integra for over 10 years and never had an issue. We are still driving DW's 2001 Honda CR-V with no major issues. Our 2008 Veracruz otoh...

My Chevy Cobalt is coming up on its 12th birthday and is still running fine, though I don't think they make new ones anymore.

There are 2 schools of thought when it comes to car buying: buy only new, and never buy new.

A lot of it depends on what kind of financial position you find yourself in, and how much tolerance you have for unplanned expenses.

New car loans are subvented by the captive finance arms of the major manufacturers. That's how they can afford to offer 0% financing, but the special financing might not always be the best deal. Sometimes taking the rebate is better, because you pay less for the car overall, even with a loan that carries interest. The problem with buying a new car these days is that you're not going to find one for less than $15,000, and that will be an econobox. The plus side? It's a brand new car with at least a 3 year/36,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty and a 5 year/60,000 mile powertrain warranty. If you go the KIA or Hyundai route, the powertrain warranty is for 10 years/100,000 miles, but it's not transferable so it won't apply if you buy one used.

If you're shopping for a used car from a dealership, do all of your research online, including researching the dealership. Some are awesome, and others make the Master look benevolent. Jessica mentioned Consumer Reports, and they are a great resource for reliability ratings. I'd supplement that with the ratings from JD Power and Edmunds.com. Those three will give you a fairly accurate picture of how a vehicle will hold up. Pay special attention if they call out the engine or transmission for a particular model year. Those are usually the two most expensive things to fix on a car.

In addition to autotrader.com, I use cargurus.com and truecar.com for used car pricing. Both cargurus and truecar will tell you if it's a good price or not. The resale market is very strong right now, so prices will be higher than you think. What time of year and where you are in the country also makes a big difference. Buying a 4WD/AWD vehicle in the off-season will be cheaper than buying it at the start or middle of winter. Buying that same vehicle in Florida will be a lot cheaper than buying it in Maine. There are wholesale used car prices, and retail used car prices. You want to pay somewhere in between.

Try to buy at the end of the month. Dealerships are scrambling to make both their new and used car numbers, and are more likely to make a deal. There are some dealership groups that advertise themselves as no-haggle--Sonic dealerships being one, in addition to CarMax. We bought the SOs new (used) car from a Sonic dealership, and it was a great price, and the process was smooth, even though we were in PA and the dealership was right outside of DC. I inquired over the phone, they sent pics since photos weren't up on the web yet, and once we saw it told them we'll see them in 2 hours. We went home with the car that night. No haggle, no fuss, and no hard sell on extras.

You're usually better off coming in with your own financing, unless you're planning on buying a certified (from the manufacturer) pre-owned vehicle that may be eligible for subvented financing rates from the captive finance arm. Dealerships make money off of your loan if they put you in it, and it might not be the best deal. Ask the dealership how they get paid if you utilize one of their loans. If they refuse to tell you, walk out. That's not all they'll hide. If they say it's a flat fee per loan, it may be worthwhile to see what rate you can get. If it's a percentage, say no thanks and stick with your preapproval from your CU or bank.

Always negotiate the purchase price, not the monthly payment, and don't forget to account for taxes and fees. A 6% tax on a $15,000 car is an extra $900, and then there's registration/tags/title/doc fees, which can add another few hundred on to the price. You will see a line item on the purchase contract called "Doc Fee" that may run $2-300. The dealership doesn't have to charge it, but if they do, they have to charge it to all customers. They cannot take it off of the contract. If you feel it is too excessive, ask them (continued...)