Oh, also, I totally passed on sarameg's Madrid rec to someone else who is there right now. What's up with that?
Which was that? La Garnacha? Mmm, I miss that neighborhood. Seriously, I have no idea where to get coffee over here at 6:30 am! Eh, maybe my morning walk will land me back there.
Powernapped and went out at 9:30. Got grilled mushroomcaps with chorizo, olive oil, assorted spices (and bread, of course, to sop up the juice) at Meson de Champignon, of course, at the bar with the same verdujo that was the favorite in Segovia, which was also the grill. Then found a place where I could get vaca solomillo (my now favorite cut/raised. I may never eat any other kind again. Seriously, that tender I am spoiled) and crianza rioja. And then the Mercado where I had cava and a pistachio...I dunno. Like baklava, maybe, but not really? It was perfectly not-too-sweet.
All these places were crazy crowded, which normally, I avoid. But hey, pushing my limits here! Pushed myself to the fore and ate crammed between too many for that space at the bar. Hell, at the Mercado, I'd been shepherding in those too timid.
Observations: the police presence is...present. More noticeable than even my beleaguered Baltimore. It might be the Legoland/Playmobile colors, it might just be because their tendency to bursting into a pedestrian area at random with the wah-wah-wah. Of course, I was reminded today of the Atocha bombings, as that's the station I had to buy tickets at, and will be leaving from tomorrow morning. The security presence is visible. And yet no security theater, whaddya know?
When they came into the plaza this evening (I was watching various street performers) I also noted the quick exit (as in flat out running) of many street hawkers with their tarps rigged to gather their goods up quickly. And then there was the contrast of the tourist crowds that teem in Plaza Mayor during the day, and the homeless carefully constructing their cardboard shelters beneath the covered walkways come 11 pm.
OK, gonna try to sleep. I'll wake up no matter what, but this place's doors have no sound insulating qualities, so I hear everyone who goes down the hall. And their echos.