Midwesterners of her era thought of Jello as multipurpose.

My mom used to complain about her own mother's "salads": lime jello with celery in it. If there was mayonnaise involved as well, I've repressed it.

The thing about Delhi in the winter is that it is *filthy*. The main heat source is coal and the air is so polluted I found it almost unbreathable. So bring an inhaler if you can.

I didn't bring much money at all because the trip was a gift from my then future in-laws. Our "base" was Chennai, where they were living, so we mainly stayed in the south except to go to Delhi and Agra. Then we cut our Delhi trip short because of the air quality and spent an extra night in Hyderabad on our way home.

My favorite place was probably Pondicherry. It's just about the most charming little city ever. And we visited a ton of forts and stuppas.

If you have time, Fatepursikri (spelling mangled because I'm on my phone) is spectacular.

Pondicherry does look interesting! New Delhi is Jon's choice, so I really don't have a say.

Yay, DJ!!! That is so cool!!!

People can become lactose intolerant when they're older, right?

Yes. I didn't develop it until I was 30. I drink lactose-free milk now and I'm fine.

Train travel in India is fantastic IF you are in first class, because that's where the air-conditioning is.

Haha, yes. I've actually never traveled in first class, just sleeper class (or second class? I forget, or possibly they are the same thing), and it can definitely be a harrowing experience. Not a lot of actual sleep was had. But India has an extensive train network and using it is one of the classic traveling-in-India experiences.

I've been to India three times: once in 2000 on a three-month-long volunteer project, when I stayed with a local family in Rishikesh (a ways north of Delhi, in the foothills of the Himalayas) and also did some traveling with my group; once for a month in 2003 when I was traveling with a friend; and once for a week in 2007 for a friend's wedding. I've spent the most time in Rishikesh and the surrounding towns, but have also spent time in Delhi, Agra, Jaipur and other cities in Rajasthan, Varanasi and surrounding towns, and Dharamsala. Never been anywhere in the south.

Rishikesh is a lovely smallish city; if you were going to be there longer or focusing just on the north, I'd be talking it up to you. But I think the places you've chosen are a good mix. I really enjoyed Rajasthan (have been to Jaipur, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, and Udaipur); I think of it as the most romantic of the places I've been. I have a particular fondness for Jaisalmer, where we slept out on the roof of our hotel our first night in town.

I loved each trip and would go back in a heartbeat (am currently trying to convince Mark that we need to take an extended trip there so he can research his next book), but I will just note that I got very sick each time. Pretty much just one major incident per trip, but I would definitely counsel you to take some heavy-duty antibiotics with you, just in case. (I was not always as careful as I should have been, but getting sick in India is, alas, another classic experience of Indian travel for us foreigners.)

If I can ask y'all. How much did you save up/spend and where all did you go?

I honestly don't remember how much I saved or spent, though I've mostly stayed in cheapo budget hotels or hostels. It's pretty easy to travel for relatively cheap, I'd say, though there are definitely things I opted not to do as a younger traveler (like getting first-class train tickets) that would be much more appealing to me now. IIRC, flying from city to city can be done for pretty cheap, too, and sounds like that might be a better option for you, since the places you want to visit are pretty far removed from one another.

OK, shutting up now, but please feel free to ping me with questions whenever you want! Oh, India!

I was not so much with the clear. We will be there 7/8 - 7/11. When do y'all leave?

We'll be there from the 4th to the 11th. We could definitely meet up!

DJ, hurray! What fabulous news! I'm very happy for you.

sprog f2f picspam flyby... [link] (flocked - if you don't see stuff, yell and tell me who you are)

I'm trying to think about it in terms of statistics -- like, if there's a plane crash right before I fly, odds are excellent that my plane won't crash -- and yet all I can think of is clustering.

Strictly speaking, the odds that a plane will crash are the same each time a plane takes off. The previous crash doesn't placate the odds gods.

big sigh of relief. the contractor just called and apologized for replacing the water line without my authorization and is now quoting me about $350 for materials and permits. It's still a little steep in my estimation, but way better than $900 and cheaper in the long term than lawyer fees and court expenses.